No news from Dior The Great Gatsby: Carey 'Hooligan'

Pro fashionistas: read this carefully because I'm going to give you long teeth. Next Friday, May 17, Baz Luhrmann's 'The Great Gatsby' opens in Spain, starring Carey Mulligan, Leonardo Di Caprio and Tobey Mcguire. Watch out for curves in this movie version of F. Scott Fitzgerald's celebrated novel, published, remember, in 1925. So you know what to expect: jewelry, tuxedos, pearls, fringes, bow ties, boaters, velvet, flapper silhouettes. ', short hair and a lot of glamour.

I read in the press release of the film and it gives me a heart attack. Total costume team: 84 people. Total meters of lace purchased from Solstiss (including plain lace, beaded lace and fabrics): 1,400. Total number of different types of lace purchased from Solstiss: 210. Total number of Fogal stockings/tights/garter belts: 1,080. Total number of Prada party dresses: 40. Total men's eveningwear and eveningwear provided for extras by Brooks Bros.: 2,291. Total number of Brooks Bros. tuxedos: 200 Total number of Brooks Bros. bow ties: 260 Total number of Brooks Bros. suspenders: 200 Total number of Brooks Bros. cufflinks: 200 Total number of ties Total number of Brooks Bros. silk shirts: 200. Total number of Brooks Bros. day shirts: 150. Total number of Brooks Bros. tuxedo shirts: 200. Total number of Brooks Bros. three-piece suits: 55. Total number of Brooks Bros. Total Brooks Bros. Boaters: 100. Oh, yeah.

And come on, let's go to the mess. Although the design of this impressive wardrobe that smells of Oscar is signed by Catherine Martin, the architect of such brilliance and distinction is Miuccia Prada, who has already collaborated more times with Luhrmann ('Romeo and Juliet'). I would have loved it if the work had brought together various egos like Sandy Powell and Paco Delgado, who, by the way, I am told has closed his magnificent 'vintage' store in Madrid (Corachán and Delgado) after succeeding with 'Les Miserables'. I don't understand!

When it comes to jewelry, we'll be dazzled by the vintage Tiffany & Co models shown in the film. Tiaras with modernist and art deco designs typical of the ostentatious Wallis Simpson, Josephine Baker or Coco Chanel; geometric brooches, multi-strand cultured pearl necklaces and bracelets, jungle motifs such as feathers and snakes, Trifari jewelry... In the years before the Great Depression, waste was little. How lucky are those who lived in New York those happy summers with jazz as background music and the caress of the clubs' tinsel curtains.

The furniture of that time was also the best, like the armchairs and the carpet that you see in this set, and also the crystal chandelier on the ceiling, the chandeliers, the canopy-curtains... The Kiki de Montparnasse hairstyle and Man Ray or Tamara de Lempicka makeup were the best. Schiaparelli and Vionnet (who invented the bias cut) were already doing wonders. Surrealism was in full swing... By the way, today I slept badly because yesterday I saw the Dalí exhibition. Do not miss it, but she is indigestible if you are not fascinated by the dreamlike style, not to say thunderous, of the great cartoonist and artist but also crazy from the hill, that I will not be the one who detracts from the high plastic value of her. A large part of his work is a matter of taste and I am more of his Cocteau and Arp stage, read, the most 'kitsch', the one with the suit with little glasses of 'peppermint' and the dress and the lobster-phone.

What 'gafapastica'.

In the film, great care has also been taken with the floral staging in white and pastel colors through lilies, camellias, hyacinths that testify to their aroma in the fineness of the lace that dresses Mulligan, beautiful again in this role and one of the great actresses of our century.

Do you perceive the delicacy of this dress-nightgown that was worn so much at that time when one changed clothes to go to dinner (in your own home)?

Embroideries, lace from Brussels, Chantilly, what an exquisite hodgepodge of lace from Soltiss. Not to mention the Fogal panties and garters and the fabulous gold and white shoes that seem to be made of the same porcelain as a vintage coffee set and also signed Miuccia Prada. The 'flapper' freaks out.

The variety of hats seen in the film is also unique. From Tobey Mcguire's cap to this modernist rhodium and Bakelite brooch cloche over satin silk shirt and round tortoiseshell glasses, like Carey Mulligan, though this girl isn't her, it's co-star Elizabeth Debicki.

The color 'nude', makeup or powder was used a lot at this time where the film is based, which will surely dictate the trend again, just as Sophia Coppola's 'Marie Antoinette' did. This tone, grayish pink, we like more every day. By the way, we can not forget about the skins. The fox and the mink lived their golden age at this time.

Just like the boater, the summer straw hat with a shoelace that men wore and which Di Caprio himself does not get off of in the movie, with his linen suits and tuxedos from Brooks Brothers, another masculine brand on the rise in magazines.

What do you think will be in the Trump 'Liberry'?

— Hoodlum 🇺🇸 Sat Apr 25 16:54:28 +0000 2020

Is the recreation of the 'twennies' atmosphere in Luhrmann's 'The Great Gatsby' successful or not? Moët & Chandon champagne flowed during filming in those short, rounded glasses that are no longer to be found but that we miss so much. Here's a nod to casinos, or Baz's own 'Moulin Rouge'. Although I like Carey Mulligan much more than Nicole Kidman.

The 'bandeau'-type silk scarf on the forehead, the embroidered kimono-style robe on the back in pure Manila shawl style... There are no shortage of references to the 1920s, when Dior and Balenciaga gave their first master stitches. Desire to see the film, if only for the luxury and power, that talking about the script is not my thing.

Nor can we fail to mention the contrast with the Ivy League and the sports that were popular at that time: golf, cricket, equestrian championships... Now those were chic dates, at country clubs, at racetracks. And I dream that one day I'll be invited to Sacha... I would kill to teleport one day to these 'happy 20's', fasten my bangs, hairstyle with a water wave, with a diamond hairpin and smoke with a cigarette holder without making a fool of myself .

Well, he left me with the charlestones and foxtrot at the Savoy and the Pasapoga and I'm back to today. Carey went like this to the premiere of the film in New York these days with a super cool black and white tuxedo, perhaps winking, she who is London, to David Bowie's V&A expo with this white lapel as lightning and thunder.

There she was at the press pass, but here on the red carpet with this red Lanvin strapless dress that doesn't even look right on her. Carey is a great discovery for me since my friend José Luis Romo, an expert in these matters, recommended her to me in the following two films.

'Shame', where the role of her is one of the strangest and most disturbing that I have seen in the cinema.

And 'Drive', a movie that makes you think and on top of that Ryan Gosling comes out. Don't miss them.

Not even in the sequel to 'Wall Street', where she plays Winnie, daughter of Gordon Gekko (Michael Douglas), does she lose charm. She is also fascinating in 'An education' and 'Pride and Prejudice'. At LOC we are even more than fans, we are Carey Mulligan's 'hooligans'.

Do you or do you not want to see 'The Great Gatsby'?

At last, finally. I know, I continue with the tiresome self-promotion of my novel 'No news from Dior'. In it there is also luxury and power, if you liked this post you will surely like the book too. Here you can buy it directly in paper or digital version: El Corte Inglés, Casa del libro, Amazon, Fnac, the El Mundo.es store and also in bookstores. I promise to make you laugh. (Yes, I'm heavy, but I want a second edition, to order more books from me and yes, to dream of making a living from this one day, which is free).

For questions, criticism or simply to tell me that Francisco Umbral was very shy when talking about his book, you can write to me at beatriz.miranda@elmundo.es, on Facebook and Twitter.