The historical desktop tasting: 400 numbers and large wines
Y para conmemorar efeméride tan festiva, en el restaurante Ovillo (Madrid) tuvieron a bien acudir cinco de las más grandes bodegas de este país. Trajeron en su equipaje míticas referencias, las mejores de las últimas cuatro décadas. Añadas insuperables, cosechas sublimes y singulares marcadas por detalles, circunstancias peculiares, climas e intervenciones que resultaron cruciales. Los bodegueros, enólogos y directores de TEMPOS VEGA SICILIA,Chivite Family Estaes, La Rioja Alta, Marqués de Riscal y Alvear desplegaron una cata que calificamos como histórica. Por el nivel de los vinos; por la soberbia verticalidad; por la reunión de esta pléyade de talento. Hubo lugar para tintos legendarios, blancos de guarda con magnífica evolución y hasta vinos dulces de matices insospechados. A tu salud, querido lector.
Chivite Collection 125
J.Chivite Family Estaes
Great winemakers since 1647, the firm has defended from its origins a way of life linked to the vineyard of one of the dynasties with the longest career in the country, since there are already eleven generations of the Chivite family that have been inheritingThe witness of the wine tradition.The last, current president, Julián Chivite López.Brands such as Chivite Collection or Legardeta, of recognized prestige, are synonymous with a job well done and respect for the essence of the Legardeta estate, unique and unique terroir of 103 hectares located 40 kilometers from Pamplo-Nna, in which their born theirWines.Since in 1993 the prestigious winemaker Denis Dubourdieu, an advisor to prestigious wineries such as Château d'yquem or Château Cheval Blanc, as well as director of the Institute of the Vineyard and Wine of the University of Bordeaux, are created mythical wines such as Chivite Collection,125 White or the late vintage collection, characterized by its evolution in the bottle.After the death of Dubourdieu (five years ago), his natural heir is the winemaker César Muñoz, in the house since 2011.Pioneers in the elaboration of pale pinks, in 2015 he launches the pink chivite the farms fruit of the collaboration of Julián Chivite with the Basque cook Juan Mari Arzak.A wine to which the farms 2 garnachas have followed and chivite the pink farms fermented in barrels.The three wines of the range of farms and the 125 collection range are welcomed to the protected geographical indication 3 banks.In the case of 125 Blanco, the first year was to go to the market under this nomination.Next year Chivite will turn 375.Undoubted.
Chivite Collection 125 1997
Do Navarra.100% Chardonnay.Raised for 11 months in new French oak barrels from Allier.
Almost 25 years contemplate this exceptional harvest, showing that the years of permanence in bottle have culminated in one of the great white wines of the country.His grapes come from the farm of Arínzano and Legardeta.It was a complicated year, in which it had to be made in green.After a difficult campaign and irregular maturation, in the month of September the good weather, dry and sunny is stabilized, allowing the maturation process to end.The difficulties and complications of this vintage grant even more merit to the final result.
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Chivite Collection 125 2004
Do Navarra.100% Chardonnay.Fermented in barrels, ages 10 months in French oak of Vosges, Nevers and Burgundy over lías.
The 2004 harvest is characterized by perfect sprouting and a slow and complete maturation.The spring rains kept enough moisture in the ground lasting the entire cycle, thanks also to a summer not excessively warm and a soft autumn, with sunny and temperate days, and cold nights;The grape matured properly, and with an excellent health state.The harvest was held the last week of September, by hand and in several passes, selecting only the best clusters.
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Chivite Collection 125 2009
Do Navarra.100% Chardonnay.He has aged 10 months on his own years with the corresponding 'Bâtonnages' in French oak barrels.
It was a complicated vintage, although the weather was similar to 2004.Winter rains and soft temperatures of spring caused a regular and homogeneous sprouting, with a slight advance with respect to the usual average in each.The harvest is lengthened by the benign weather conditions, allowing to collect each variety, each plot, at its optimal moment of maturity.Production was shorter than usual, slightly higher than 10.500 bottles.
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Chivite Collection 125 2016
Do Navarra.100% Chardonnay.With an 11 -month breeding in French oak barrels from Allier.
For Julián Chivite "this wine will have a great capacity for aging".With regard to the vintage, a rain winter and a soft spring, one of the driest summers of the historical series (more than 100 consecutive days without raining) happened to him).This absence of rainfall has definitively marked the vintage, on the one hand, causing maturation to be delayed due to water stress, and on the other promoting good conditions to reach the end of the vegetative cycle in a perfect health state.
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Gran Reserva 904
La Rioja Alta, S.A.
131 years have passed since five Basque and Riojan viticultors, in the emblematic neighborhood of the Haro Station, founded the Vinícola de la Rioja Alta society.It was July 1890 and at that time a project was starting whose objective was to make quality wines.It is the reason why its first technical director would be Monsieur Vigier, author of the 1890 Reserve that would later become the Gran Reserva 890 that we know today.The name of La Rioja Alta arrives a year later, today becoming a powerful group with wineries in other outstanding areas of the country (Oña Tower in Rioja Alavesa, iast in Ribera del Duero and Lagar de Cervera in Rías Baixas).Guillermo de Aranzabal, president of the La Rioja Alta Group, belongs to a family that has been linked to the house since those beginnings at the end of the 19th century.As a significant brushstroke, we must remember that his great -grandfather, Nicolás Alberdi, was president of that initial society in the 40s (of the twentieth century), and his grandmother Mª Teresa Alberdi, some time later, the main shareholder.At present, as in those distant beginnings, they continue to mark the step a constant search for excellence.To do this, apart from acquiring more and more hectares of their own vineyard (which allows them, if possible, a more exhaustive control), the company's commitment for R&D.An investment in the most leading technology that coexists with traditional practices such as the elaboration of its own American oak barrels or the artisanal transfers.Without forgetting the long parenting they give to several of their wines.This is the case of the Gran Reserva 904 protagonist of this vertical, in the words of Julio Sáenz, technical director of the winery and the group, "one of the best wines of the house next to the rest of the great reserves we elaborate".
Gran Reserva 904 1982
Doca Rioja.85% Tempranillo and 15% Graciano and Mazuelo.6 months breeding in oak tubs after stainless controlled fermentation and 5 years in an American oak barrel.
The year 82 was an excellent harvest.Add very dry, in which it rained well in a very soft winter, as well as in the month of September.Maturation was balanced.For its elaboration the grapes of the oldest vineyards in the area of Rioja Alta were used, mainly of the payments owned by the winery in Briñas, Ollauri and Rodezno.
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Gran Reserva 904 1995
Doca Rioja.90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano.The wine passes to American oak barrels than those of previous adds, in which it remains 4 years.
In Rioja it was a harvest that awakens the eyes to the classic.Very fresh year, with an adequate distribution of rain throughout the cycle, a perfect maturation and unbeatable the health state with which the grape entered the wineries.We find an vintage of excellent quality and a new production record in Rioja.The vineyard is in the highest part.The Tempranillo variety comes from the areas of Briñas, Labastida and Villalba, complemented with 10% of Gracian.
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Gran Reserva 904 2001
Doca Rioja.90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano.4 years of parenting in 4 -year -old American oak barrels.
For Julio Sáenz, technical director of the winery, the best harvest of La Rioja.This vintage was developed in the labastida facilities, owned by the firm, and the parenting and the average life of the barrels is also reduced.Now Sáenz is his architect.It was made with 60% of its own grape and the rest bought from fourth and fifth generation viticultors.The Tempranillo comes from vine.The maturation process was slow and slow, with healthy and unbeatable grapes.
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Gran Reserva 904 2010
Doca Rioja.90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano.4 years in 4 -year -old American oak barrels.
Considered one of the best crops of this century, and one of the largest Atlantic character in recent years, which has allowed obtaining wines of great freshness and complexity, optimal for long criazas.Add qualified as excellent and fully elaborated with own grapes.Tempranillo de Viñedos over 60 years located in Briñas, Labastida and Villalba and Graciano of their Montecillo farm, located in the municipality of Fuenmayor.
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Baron de Chisel
Marqués de Riscal
The Hurtado de Amézaga family was the founder of this emblematic winery and unique owners for four generations, until 1945.It was then that the distribution of a small percentage of its actions was decided and as well as, little by little, the Aznar-Gandarias group was increasing its shareholding and in successive decades the Aznar family has become a majority shareholder.In this way, Alejandro Aznar Sáinz - member of the third generation - has occupied the presidency for more than two decades.Movements that have not subtracted an apex of the family character that defines the history of this house, underway since 1858.Its founder, Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga, Marqués de Riscal, with vineyards and warehouse in Elciego (Álava), receives the commission of the Diputación de Álava to hire a winemaker who taught the harvesters the techniques they used in the Médoc, and it isJust as Jean Pineau arrives the area.Run 1862.At that time, the Marqués de Riscal sends Rioja Alavesa Sarmientos of various French varieties with which he intends to experiment in his vineyards.Start -up to elaborate and raise red wines according to the Bordelés method, this firm has been a pioneer in time without ever losing its fidelity to tradition and the ways of elaboration.It was also essential for the birth of the Do Rueda, where they were revolutionaries again when using barrels with La Verdejo.With the arrival of the new century, one of the notable milestones is the 2000 project, which was going to be a giant step with the remodeling of the cellar and the beginning of tourist visits.And that six years later he would culminate with the inauguration of the city of wine with its spectacular hotel as a visual reference, designed by the famous architect Frank or.Gehry.Among the wines that the firm has been preparing during these centuries, Baron de Chisel, whose first vintage dates from 1986, represents the turning point of what begins to be considered the new Rioja.
Baron de Chirel Reserva 1988
Doca Rioja.75% Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo and 25% Graciano.24 months of parenting in American oak barrels.
Second vintage that it went on the market after the 1986.The winter that preceded the harvest was tempered, without frost in spring and with a fresh summer.Surprisingly the rain was high, with 700 liters per square meter throughout the year, when it is estimated that it is half.All this demanded extra vineyard surveillance.
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Baron de Chirel Reserva 1995
Doca Rioja.60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.With a raising of 26 months in American oak barrel.
Excellent year for the Regulatory Council, this wine has far gample the potential of the vintage.It should be noted that from this riscal harvest manually selects the grapes by implementing selection tables;First winery in Spain that introduces this system.Regarding the weather, winter was moderate, with normal rains between April and August, although the first week of July was very humid.The maturation was early at the beginning, but it followed a fresh September month, with not abundant rain, but very well distributed.October stumbled dry and hot, so abnormally warm that it caused a perfect maturation ending.
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Baron de Chirel Reserva 2004
Doca Rioja.70% Tempranillo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.With a 24 -month aging in American oak barrels.
A true oenological jewel, superb harvest, the best in its history and of the 21st century.Unbeatable harvest due to the great contribution of water, with rains in the first months and snow at the end of February.Flowering is abundant and irregular and summer passes without incident until September, in which abundant rainfall (up to 100 l/m2 in some area of the region) that causes delays in maturation and health problems and problems of a problem are produced.But the succession of dry and hot days stopped the development of puddumbres and facilitated proper maturation.
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Baron de Chirel Reserva 2016
Doca Rioja.65% Tempranillo and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon.Malolactics in barrels.It has remained 22 months in French oak barrels from Allier.
For Luis Hurtado de Amézaga "a very long vintage".The grapes come from the area of Elciego and Laguardia, from the payments of Garcimoracho, Tapias, St. Pelayo, Vialva and La Collada, at an altitude of between 450 and 550 meters.The harvest is characterized by great health, with a scarce fall in rainfall and a winter of very soft temperatures where abundant rains mitigate the shortage of the previous station.Summer is especially dry and hot braking the advance that the vegetative cycle carried.The harvest began on September 23 selectively.
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Vega Sicily Unique
TEMPOS VEGA SICILIA
TEMPOS VEGA SICILIA is the name under which the five wineries that the Álvarez family have created since its arrival in the world of wine in 1982, at which time the mythical Casa Vega Sicilia acquired that had been founded in the previous century by Eloy Lecanda, in Quintanilla de Onésimo (Valladolid) where it has been maintained since then, and in what years ago it is known as the gold mile of the Ribera del Duero for the wineries that meet there.The origins date back to 1848 when Toribio Lecanda acquires the farm in which the winery is located and where he began to make wine until Eloy, his son, opens the doors of that first winery in 1864.It was the one who would be in charge of planting new vineyards and renewing the elaboration systems, which shortly afterwards would be numerous recognitions.In the early twentieth century, the winemaker Txomin Garramiola is responsible for starting to make wines with at least seven years of parenting and Bordelés style.One of the characteristics that Vega Sicily has maintained over a hundred years.But returning to those times, the winery would then go through different purchase-sale processes until in the year 82 it reaches the hands of the Álvarez family.Since then, with Pablo Álvarez at the head as a coach of the group, they have dedicated themselves to making great wines, with long youngs, making Vega Sicily and its wines a benchmark in the world.Today, since he arrived at the house six years ago, Gonzalo Iturriaga is the technical director of all the Bodegas of TEMPOS VEGA SICILIA (Alion and Vega Sicily in Ribera del Duero; Pintia in Toro; Oremus in the Tokaj region,In Hungary, and La Riojana Macán, the result of a collaboration agreement between the Rothschild and Vega Sicily family).Among all the wines they elaborate, it is unquestionable that the unique of the mother house is the top elaboration of the family, a reference that is still sold by quotas (given its limited production) as decided from the beginning, in a system that followsworking with enormous success.
Vega Sicily Unique 2011
Do Ribera del Duero.95% fine red and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.5 years of parenting between 225 L barrel.(1.5 years) and 22 tino.000 l.(3.5 years).The oak is American and French, new and used.Own tonger
Label that appeared in the market as generic, that is, without rating of Gran Reserva.The raising of this wine, between wood and bottle, is a minimum of 10 years, of the longest in the world.Very concentrated harvest and maturation of slow and progressive grapes.The absence of rain and good temperature allowed to wait.Add qualified as excellent by the Regulatory Council.
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Vega Sicily Unique Gran Reserva 2004
Do Ribera del Duero.87% fine red and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon.15 months in wooden tino, 25 months in new barrel, 17 months in a barrica envied and 26 months in large -capacity wood tino.
Another of the great vintages of the century, also qualified as excellent by the Ribera del Duero Regulatory Council.There was a typical winter, with frequent frosts and abundant rains, a temperate spring, sprouting in the middle of April and without frost, and a hot summer, with rains in timely times.The harvest was held from September 28 to October 7, with a dry time.Made with the oldest vineyards owned by the winery.
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Vega Sicily Unique Gran Reserva 1996
Do Ribera del Duero.90% fine red and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.He remained 20 months in wood tino, 24 months in new barrel, 24 months in a barrica envied and 19 months in large -capacity wood tino.
Again the Regulatory Council this year described this year.It is presented with a more Burgic and friendly style.Winter reached cold temperatures, with a medium-high rainfall, being spring also cold although without frost, with high rainfall and a hot summer with intermittent rains.It was harvested on October 1, with dry time and high temperature.The production of this wine was 95.500 bottles, mérito añadido pensando en su gran calidad.
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Vega Sicily Unique Gran Reserva 1987
Do Ribera del Duero.80% fine red, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot and Malbec.He remained 2 years in large-capacity wood tines, later received a 16-month breeding in new barrels, 2 years in semi-new ones, 3 in used to end 3 years in large-capacity wood tino.The rest in bottle until its commercialization.
Almost 35 years contemplate it, appearing for the first time in the market in 2002.It was a fresher and more late year, with cold winter and high rainfall, temperate spring, with medium-high rain and a difficult and risky harvest, since the rains were intermittent.Production on this occasion was less than that of the vintage 96: 79.500 bottles.
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Peter Jimenez
Bodegas Alvear
Founded in 1729, Alvear is the second of Spain in Spain and is currently directed by the eighth generation of the Alvear family, with María, Luis and Fernando Giménez Alvear at the head.The surname Alvear represents an old lineage whose descendants settled in Córdoba and exploited Montillan vineyards since the end of the 17th century, leaving the direction of their farms to foreman.After centuries, the latest generations of the Alvear family are dedicated fully to the elaboration and marketing of wines, this house being the hegemonic in Montilla-Moriles.Continuing with remarkable data, also its C brand.B.It is the oldest fifth in the country and whose name is a tribute to the foreman who marked with his initials the best boots, Carlos Billanueva.Alvear has been, from the beginning, a commitment determined by the Montillanos wines, with a special dedication to the generous storing, among other elaborations, old suns that today constitute authentic oenological jewels.Moreover, they rest in their wines ships with more than 200 years, some prefilexeric that were made before the plague swept the vineyards.It must also be pointed out that, although one of the foremen who was in the house brought from his homeland, Jerez, the breeding and soleras system, in Alvear they also retain boots where their fine ones and PX of Védada age in a static way.In a territory where the cultivation of the vine was not the most entrenched, Alvear was a pioneer in selling wine not only by arrobas, but also bottled from the last quarter of the nineteenth century, when, according to historian Fernando Fuentes, it was bought in theBodega the first bottling machine.Undoubted.
PX from Añada 2017
Do Montilla-Moriles.100% Peter Jimenez.It has remained 2 years in the traditional preparation jars for its final assembly.
We are facing the most youthful version of the PX of the house, with greater freshness and fluidity.According to Fernando Giménez Alvear, "I would be at the Mistela wine limit".The harvest is performed at the end of August, selecting the grapes of a single thin skin harvest to the sun, being the floor of Albariza.The wine is headed at 17º.Since 1998, Alvear has been the only winery in the world to produce a vertical range of the full of Peter Jimenez in full.
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PX of Sacristy 2007
Do Montilla-Moriles.100% Peter Jimenez.2 -year aging in jars plus a 10 -year breeding in half 250 liter boots.
This vintage, unlike 2017, in which youth and freshness takes a greater prominence, is marked by greater parenting, which this time has successfully combined its aging between jar and half a boot, which has given it greaterpersonality and character, as well as complexity and maturity.This is what he has shown in the tasting.
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PX of sacristy 1999
Do Montilla-Moriles.100% Peter Jimenez.Ages between 12-24 months in jars to then pass half-boots of 250 liters, in which it will remain 18 more years.
As we indicated in the 2017 vintage, it was from the year 98 when this winery became the only one in the world to elaborate a complete vertical range, of the vintages of Peter Jimenez.From that moment, each harvest has a static upbringing in its sacristy warehouse until it is bottled.In this harvest also increased aging in the half boot, which passes from the ten years that 200 years was.
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PX Solera 1/52
Do Montilla-Moriles.100% Peter Jimenez.For its elaboration, unlike the previous.
We are facing the PX Top and more special of the house.As a curious point, explain that the "1/52 breeding" is the equivalent of the above -end on the scales of Peter Jimenez Viejísimos de Alvear.Without a doubt this PX has conquered us;35 years of wisdom and growth in every way, a delight!
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